When is a wine biodynamic and is it the better choice
Biodynamic viticulture is similar to organic viticulture, but with more restrictions on pesticides and winemaking additives. One of the most notable aspects to biodynamic wine is that the position of the moon is taken into account in the vineyard and the wine cellar. Some people consider this a bit extreme. Nevertheless, some of the most expensive and famous wines in the world are produced using biodynamic methods.
It is becoming increasingly popular and predates even its organic counterpart. I am talking about biodynamic wine. But what exactly does the biodynamic certification mean and why should you go for a biodynamic wine?
A healthy soil equals a healthy plant
In effect, a biodynamic wine is an organic wine with a number of sustainable and philosophical additions. It was the first counter-movement in the late 19th century against the rapidly emerging use of artificial fertilizers. As with organic viticulture, biodynamic viticulture avoids chemical pesticides. It is namely based on the principle of ‘healthy soil = healthy plant’. Next to the viticulture restrictions, there are fewer additives permitted during winemaking compared to organic wine. Obviously (or rather unfortunately) these principles are not sacred.
From organic to biodynamic
However, to obtain a biodynamic wine, one must go a few steps further. The winery as a whole is seen as a single harmonious ecosystem. All actions and activities in the vineyard and wine cellar are coordinated with the planets, stars, and (in particular) the moon. Biodynamic winegrowers see the vine as having four parts—1) roots, 2) leaves, 3) flowers, and 4) grapes—which may or may not require attention depending on the position of the moon. So-called ‘preparations’ are used as a connection between the cosmos and the vineyard to, among other things, nourish the soil and combat pests in a natural way.
Two examples of biodynamic practices:
- Pruning is carried out during the waning moon phase (towards the new moon)
- To improve the humus layer, cow manure that has been buried in cow horns during the winter is sprayed (known as ‘preparation 500’)
The biodynamic certification
As with organic wine, there are official certification bodies that monitor and guarantee the above. By far the largest and best known is Demeter. It operates internationally, also applies to other food products, and can be recognized by its orange logo. However, the specific rules may vary from country to country. For example, winegrowers in the United States must use natural yeasts, while in the United Kingdom commercial yeasts are also permitted.
The ‘Biodyvin’ quality mark is also well known: a French company that, as the name suggests, applies exclusively to biodynamic wine products.
Is biodynamic better
When it comes to sustainability, biodynamic viticulture goes a step further than organic viticulture. More attention is paid to biodiversity and self-sufficiency. For example, manure must come from the farm itself. In addition, smaller quantities of environmentally unfriendly substances may be used. However, it is debatable whether biodynamic wine is more sustainable. This may be because animal products are used in preparations (animal products are rarely sustainable). Strictly speaking, biodynamic wine is therefore never vegan friendly.
How does a biodynamic wine taste
When it comes to taste, it is difficult to compare conventional and biodynamic wines. There is more than one variable at play, so it remains a case of apples and oranges. You could argue that the attention that the vineyard and the final wine receive under biodynamic viticulture can have a positive influence on quality. That extra care means that biodynamic wine is more expensive on average, which brings us to the final point.
The most expensive wine in the world
Since the end of the 20th century, more and more winegrowers have switched to biodynamic viticulture. However, it is still a relatively small group, accounting for less than 0.3% of the worldwide vineyard area. This small share is more than compensated for by the great fame of some producers. Some of the most famous wine producers have taken the plunge and are also producing top wines using the biodynamic viticulture. Examples include Chapoutier (Northern Rhône, Hermitage) and Huet (Loire, Vouvray). The undisputed leaders are Domaine Leroy and Domaine Romanée-Conti. Both produce biodynamic wines, or rather ‘biodynamic gold’, in the Burgundy appellation. Their wines easily cost €10,000 or a multiple thereof… per bottle!
Ultimately, biodynamic viticulture is more of a philosophy. Wine producers believe that it gives them better quality grapes and therefore better wines. Whether biodynamic wines are also of better quality remains a matter of debate, of course. But one thing is certain: believing is tasting 😊.
Robert, Cloud Wine
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